Salamis Ancient City

Salamis is one of the great archaeological sites of the eastern Mediterranean — a city that was the largest on Cyprus from the 11th century BC through the Byzantine period, founded by Teucer (according to legend) after the fall of Troy and continuously occupied for nearly 2,000 years. The site sits on the east coast just north of Famagusta, in the territory of Northern Cyprus. Earthquakes in the 4th and 7th centuries AD and the 7th-century Arab raids ended its life; sand and pine-scrub then preserved it.

The site is sprawling — you walk it for two hours and only see a fraction. The set-pieces are the Roman gymnasium and palaestra (a colonnaded courtyard with re-erected marble columns, marble floors and Roman headless statues lining the porticoes), the adjacent thermal baths with their hypocausts, the immense amphitheatre seating 15,000 (rebuilt under Augustus), the partially excavated agora (one of the largest in the Roman Mediterranean), and the early Christian basilicas including the Campanopetra. The east edge of the city runs straight onto a long empty sand beach.

Beyond the Greco-Roman city, Salamis was an important early Christian centre — Saint Barnabas, the apostle who evangelised Cyprus with Saint Paul in 45 AD, was martyred at Salamis in 61 AD; his tomb is at the small Saint Barnabas Monastery 2 km west of the main site (a separate visit, atmospheric, a small museum).

What to do. Walk the marked routes; bring printed information or download the Northern Cyprus museums-and-monuments PDF before crossing — the on-site signage is limited. The gymnasium is the photogenic centre, the theatre the dramatic moment, the basilicas the quiet finds. Allow at least two hours, three if you also visit the Saint Barnabas Monastery.

Insider tips. Crossing into Northern Cyprus requires passport and appropriate insurance — many southern hire companies do not allow it. A taxi from Famagusta (10 min) avoids the issue. Bring water — the site has minimal facilities. Wear closed shoes; thistles and unexcavated rubble are real. Photography is welcome.

Combinations. Combine with Famagusta old town (the walled Lusignan-Ottoman city, 15 min south, with the famous Othello Tower), with the tomb-monastery of Saint Barnabas, and with the long empty beach immediately east of the site for a swim. A complete eastern Northern Cyprus day.

Bring. Hat, water (1.5L), sunscreen, closed shoes, passport, euros and Turkish lira (small change for parking). When. March-May and October-November are ideal; avoid summer midday. Salamis rewards readers and walkers — it is huge, hot, and quiet, and the longer you stay the more it gives.